Rapunzel's Back In Rehab: Deranged PNW Big Wall Climbing
Tower Rock, located two hours from just about anything remained virtually untouched until 2015, when a small group of NW local climbers consisting of Eric “Ivan” Linthwaite, Bill Coe, and Geoff Silverman started bolting on one of the northwest’s only big walls. You could say this now monstrosity is the byproduct of a hardcore group in search of what they weirdly would define as “Spoid Climbing”.
You’re probably sitting there asking yourself what that translates to, but I can assure you that we still are wrapping our heads around the concept of a mix between Sport + Aid climbing. The route has plenty of larger than life personality mixed in as its creator the self-proclaimed “fear-fucked Orangatan” set many of Tower Rock’s pitches.
Finally finished and successfully climbed in 2017 by the very group that dreamt up the bizarre creation, Rapunzel’s Back In Rehab saw its second group tick off the route in Summer 2024. We were drawn to this route because of its absurdity. Who would think of drilling nearly 1200' of bolt ladders? Despite being "easy" aid climbing, it's clear from the mountain project comments and ticks that this route has repelled quite a few attempts which only piqued our interest further. And, perhaps it's the closest Grade V climb to Portland!? Consisting of Portland locals Matt Zavortink, Koby Yudkin, and Reilly Smith as the second group to tackle such a bizarre route. Below is a rough account of the events that transpired, or what the group remembers as they were mentally fighting to comprehend why such a thing should even exist.
1 comment
Ivan
Righteous, glad ya’ll liked it. For god’s sake, Bill Coe donated $10,000 or more of steel to the side of that cliff and paid for the gas more often than not on the 20 trips back and forth it took to slam it all in, so it needs more traffic to make all that worthwhile – go get it, Rapunzel don’t disappoint suitors who show her special favors :)
Righteous, glad ya’ll liked it. For god’s sake, Bill Coe donated $10,000 or more of steel to the side of that cliff and paid for the gas more often than not on the 20 trips back and forth it took to slam it all in, so it needs more traffic to make all that worthwhile – go get it, Rapunzel don’t disappoint suitors who show her special favors :)